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Mengenal Pakaian Pengantin Kotogadang yang Makin Populer

- by Donny - 264 Comments.
Busana Pengantin Koto Gadang

AKSIKATA.COM, JAKARTA- Yayasan Kerajinan Amai Setia memperkenalkan kembali tata cara dan kelengkapan pakaian adat pengantin Kotogadang yang sesuai dengan kepatutan dan identitas nagari Kotogadang melalui webinar.

Beberapa tahun terakhir, masyarakat Indonesia semakin akrab dengan pakaian pengantin Kotogadang.

Umumnya mereka mengidentifikasi pakaian pengantin Kotogadang melalui penutup kepala pengantin wanita yang disamakan dengan kerudung.

Popularitas pakaian pengantin yang diidentikkan dengan pakaian pengantin Kotogadang terus menanjak. Bahkan makin banyak sosok kenamaan memilih memakai pakaian pengantin yang diberi ‘label’ pakaian pengantin Kotogadang.

Seiring meningkatnya popularitas sebutan pakaian pengantin Kotogadang, muncul keprihatinan di kalangan bundo kanduang, kaum ibu dan perempuan di nagari Kotogadang.

Keprihatinan mereka terutama karena sebutan pakaian pengantin Kotogadang tersebut tidak dibarengi dengan kelengkapan dan tata cara pemakaian yang sesuai dengan pakaian pengantin Kotogadang yang sesungguhnya.
Sebagaimana pakaian adat yang memiliki aturan tersendiri dalam pemakaiannya, pakaian pengantin Kotogadang pun demikian.

Ada kelengkapan dan tata cara pemakaian yang harus diikuti. Aturan ini berlaku sejak zaman nenek moyang dan diwariskan secara turun temurun.

Bagi masyarakat Kotogadang, pakaian pengantin Kotogadang memiliki nilai historis yang tidak hanya menumbuhkan rasa kecintaan dan kebanggaan terhadap tanah leluhur, tapi juga membentuk identitas tersendiri.

Karena itulah, hingga kini pakaian pengantin Kotogadang masih dipakai. Melestarikan pakaian adat seperti pakaian pengantin Kotogadang, membutuhkan usaha  tersendiri karena dalam perjalanannya, banyak hal-hal yang menjadi kendala. Antara lain,  adanya keterbatasan serta pengaruh dari luar dan arus modernisasi yang begitu kuat.

Sejauh  ini, pakaian pengantin Kotogadang cukup mampu bertahan tanpa ada perubahan yang membuatnya melenceng jauh dari keasliannya. Namun, di sisi lain masih banyak ketidaktahuan yang mengancam kelestarian identitas pakaian pengantin Kotogadang.

Menjawab keprihatinan bundo kanduang nagari Kotogadang akan kelestarian identitas  pakaian pengantin Kotogadang, Yayasan Kerajinan Amai Setia Kotogadang mengadakan  webinar ”Pakaian Pengantin Kotogadang”. Webinar Pakaian Pengantin Kotogadang diadakan pada Rabu, 16 Desember 2020 melalui online.

Webinar ini gratis dan terbuka untuk umum, termasuk untuk masyarakat non-Kotogadang. “Kami mengadakan webinar ini untuk meluruskan tata cara pemakaian pakaian pengantin  Kotogadang yang sudah melenceng sehingga mengancam kelestariannya. Tidak dapat dimungkiri, usaha ini tidak akan mudah karena melibatkan banyak hal bagi pemakainya.

Antara lain, biaya, aspek fashion, dan selera pemakai. Tapi kami tetap berusaha untuk  melakukan pelestarian pakaian pengantin adat Kotogadang untuk generasi penerus Kotogadang, maupun pihak lain yang menyukai pakaian tersebut,” jelas Yetty Budiarman, Ketua Umum Yayasan Kerajinan Amai Setia Kotogadang.

Kendala lain yang juga menjadi perhatian dalam melestarikan pakaian pengantin Kotogadang  diungkapkan Halmiati Juni, Dewan Pengawas Yayasan Kerajinan Amai Setia Kotogadang.

“Karena diwariskan secara turun temurun, seiring perjalanan waktu, ada saja detail-detail yang tidak tersampaikan atau mungkin terabaikan. Akibatnya, masih banyak salah kaprah yang terjadi dalam memakai pakaian pengantin Kotogadang. Selain itu, masih banyak yang mengabaikan kelengkapan dan tata cara pemakaian pakaian  pengantin Kotogadang,” jelas Halmiati yang juga tampil sebagai pembicara.

Halmiati menjelaskan bahwa kelengkapan dan tata cara pemakaian pakaian pengantin Kotogadang yang berlaku dalam tradisi masyarakat Kotogadang tidak dapat diabaikan. Karena, hal-hal yang mendasar itulah yang membentuk identitas tersendiri bagi pakaian pengantin Kotogadang, sekaligus membedakannya dengan pakaian pengantin adat daerah lain.

Di balik pakaian pengantin Kotogadang juga terkandung prinsip yang tidak dapat diabaikan.

“Prinsipnya tidak meninggalkan ajaran agama, serba tertutup. Tidak ketat. Langan laweh (tangan lebar), badan lapang (badan longgar). Pakaian pengantin Kotogadang itu filosofinya, serba bataratik (tertib), badacak (patut),” jelas Srirayani Irwan, pembicara yang juga aktif sebagai Ketua Bidang Produksi dan Promosi Yayasan Kerajinan Amai Setia Kotogadang.

Menurut Srirayani, penutup kepala pengantin wanita Kotogadang yang disebut oleh  masyarakat kebanyakan sebagai kerudung, sebetulnya tidak tepat.

Penutup kepala pengantin wanita Kotogadang disebut tilakuang yang bisa berarti mukena, perlengkapan salat untuk wanita. “Tilakuang anak daro (pengantin wanita) itu tidak sama dengan kerudung. Model tilakuang sama dengan yang dipakai untuk salat. Lihat saja lubang di atas kepala.

Busana Koto Gadang khas dengan penutup kepala yang disebut tengkuluk talakuang. Tampak dari penampilan pengantin berbusana Koto Gadang, ciri lainnya dikenali dari perhiasan bertumpuk dari kaling dan gelang. Busana yang dipakai juga bukan kebaya melainkan baju kurung dari bludru dengan motif emas.

Posisinya menghadap ke atas. Perumpamaannya, kalau kita tarik ke depan ke arah muka, posisinya sama dengan tilakuang salat. Lubang yang menghadap ke atas melambangkan seolah-olah  penghormatan untuk yang di atas (Allah SWT),” papar Srirayani.

Beragam Jenis

Ada beberapa jenis pakaian adat pengantin Kotogadang dengan aturan pemakaian yang berbeda-beda. Dalam webinar kali ini, Yayasan Kerajinan Amai Setia Kotogadang akan menampilkan dua jenis pakaian pengantin wanita (pakaian anak daro) dan dua jenis pakaian pengantin pria (pakaian marapulai).

Pakaian pengantin tersebut adalah: Pakaian anak daro Kotogadang:
– Baju Kurung Tarawang Tigo (dengan undok, penutup kepala berupa selendang yang  dikerudungkan) – dipakai setelah ijab kabul terlaksana.
– Baju Kurung Batabua (dengan tilakuang, penutup kepala dari bahan beludru) – biasa dipakai untuk resepsi. Bisa juga dipakai setelah ijab kabul terlaksana.
Pakaian marapulai Kotogadang:
– Baju Gadang (dengan deta batik, penutup kepala destar batik) – dipakai pada saat acara nikah maupun resepsi. Biasanya disandingkan dengan Baju Kurung Tarawang Tigo. Tapi bisa juga disandingkan dengan Baju Kurung Batabua.
– Baju Roki (dengan deta gadang ameh, penutup kepala berupa destar emas) – dipakai hanya pada saat resepsi di gedung. Disandingkan dengan Baju Kurung Batabua.

Semua pakaian ini dijelaskan berikut kelengkapan dan tata cara pemakaiannya.

Webinar “Pakaian Pengantin Kotogadang” diharapkan dapat memberi pengetahuan yang lebih komprehensif kepada masyarakat Kotogadang dan masyarakat luas mengenai pakaian
pengantin Kotogadang. Dengan demikian, pada akhirnya diharapkan tidak ada lagi salah kaprah yang terjadi.

Yayasan Kerajinan Amai Setia Kotogadang bermula dari sebuah perkumpulan wanita Amai Setia yang didirikan oleh jurnalis wanita Indonesia pertama, Rky. Roehanna Koeddoes pada tahun 1911. Ia bersama Rky. Rakena Puti dan Rky. Hadisah mendirikan perkumpulan ini untuk meningkatkan derajat wanita Minangkabau, khususnya Kotogadang.

Amai Setia menjadi pusat kegiatan kaum wanita Kotogadang. Di Amai Setia, kaum wanita Kotogadang dapat belajar membaca, menulis, berhitung, dan berbagai keterampilan lainnya, seperti
menyulam dan merenda.

Pada tahun 1915, Kerajinan Amai Setia mendapat pengakuan Rechtspersoon atau badan hukum, dengan surat putusan Nomor 31 tanggal 16 Januari 1915.

Pada 23 Februari 1919, Kerajinan Amai Setia mulai menggunakan gedungnya sendiri. Sejak itu, gedung ini menjadi salah satu ikon bagi Kotogadang.

Amai Setia kemudian berkembang menjadi Yayasan Kerajinan Amai Setia Kotogadang hingga kini giat dalam upaya pelestarian adat budaya dan kerajinan Kotogadang.

Pada 8 November 2019, Roehanna Koeddoes dianugerahi gelar Pahlawan Nasional.

Kotogadang adalah sebuah nagari (setingkat desa) di Kecamatan IV Koto, Kabupaten Agam, Provinsi Sumatra Barat, Indonesia. Nagari Kotogadang terletak di dataran antara Gunung Singgalang dan Ngarai Sianok pada ketinggian 920-950 meter di atas permukaan laut.

Nagari Koto Gadang memiliki luas wilayah 640 Ha dengan batas-batas; Nagari Sianok VI Suku (Utara), Nagari Koto Tuo (Selatan), Guguak Tabek Sarojo (Timur), dan Nagari Koto Panjang (Barat).

Nagari Kotogadang dikenal luas sebagai penghasil kerajinan perak dan sulam. Selendang sulam khas Kotogadang yang merupakan selendang adat kini makin populer di kalangan masyarakat hingga aneka modifikasinya pun bermunculan.

Nagari Kotogadang juga dikenal sebagai nagari terpelajar dan melahirkan banyak tokoh-tokoh nasional.

Di antaranya, alm. Syekh Ahmad Khatib Al-Minangkabawi, alm. H. Agus Salim, almh. Roehanna Koeddoes, alm. Soetan Sjahrir, Letjend (Purn.) Rais Abin, dan Prof. Emil Salim. Selain itu banyak lagi tokoh Kotogadang lainnya yang berkarier di Pemerintahan maupun swasta.

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